May 31

693-703

Today is the final day of the desert section of the PCT. We have enjoyed our time out here, but it is unanimously considered the least favorite section of the PCT. After 700 miles of hiking through southern California we walk along the banks of our first actual river: The Kern River.

The river winds through a massive meadow, and it is so unlike any landscape we have seen thus far on this trip that the transition from desert to high mountains feels as if it is happening immediately before our eyes.

We walk into the small village of Kennedy Meadows at mile 703- the gateway to the High Sierra. From here the trail does not cross a road for over 200 miles. Any resupply option requires a half day hike, often over a High Sierra pass, to reach a bailout point.

The Sierra Nevada have inspired generations of Americans. John Muir, famed ecologist and early proponent of the preservation of America’s wild places, was particularly inspired by the majesty of the Sierra and surrounding wildlands.

John Muir was devoutly religious and saw the destruction of America’s woodlands as blasphemous. He found it particularly sacrilegious for forests to get cut down, something he considered a perfect creation by God, to then use the wood to create man-made place of worship.

“No wonder the hills and groves were God’s first temples, and the more they are cut down and hewn into cathedrals and churches, the farther off and dimmer seems the Lord himself.”

One can see how the granite domes and spires of the Sierra Nevada, and the way they capture sunlight, can inspire religious conviction. Muir spent his life working to protect Yosemite valley, founding the Sierra Club, for that purpose.

In 1903 Teddy Roosevelt visited the Sierra, on a 3 day camping trip guided by John Muir. Soon afterwards Roosevelt signed into law further protection for Yosemite, established 5 other national parks, and set up hundreds of other protected areas. Our public lands are the envy of the world. We have met hikers from all over the globe, and a common refrain from folks from other countries is how fortunate we are in this country to have this series of long distance trails, and the public lands they traverse.

We spend time at the general store cheering on other hikers that arrive, showering, washing laundry, and eating absurd amounts of food to prep for the difficult stretch ahead. Tomorrow we will need to pick up extra supplies as we transition to the high mountains.

one final note-

This town has a great deal on gas.