June 3

723-750

Our day is spent undulating around 10,000 feet, setting up for the higher Sierra passes. It didn’t feel like we did any major climbs, but we still accumulated 4,600 feet of elevation gain during the day. There are no easy days in the Sierra.

At mid day we get our permits checked by a Backcountry ranger. The permits for the PCT have become highly competitive- we initially had to apply for permits early last winter in November. It allows us to pass through the entire trail with a single permit, which is a huge logistical help for this kind of trip. Starting dates for permits are available from March 1st to May 31st. You choose a starting date totally blind to what the winter snowpack will be. This year, with a higher than average snowpack, those who started in March have had to take significant time off trail to allow snow to melt. Our April 21st start has felt pretty close to perfect- though we will see if I am singing the same tune when we hike over the high passes.

All day fighter jets have been soaring overhead. We are on the Eastern slope of the Sierra, where peaks climb to 14,000 feet towering over the desert floor below at 2,000 feet. It is one of the most dramatic changes in elevation in America and navy jets from China Lake Naval Base use this area as a testing grounds. When we hear the jets above us, we have to look far in front of where we perceived the noise to be. The jets are moving so fast, that the sound of their passage, lays far behind them. Unfortunately we were not able to take a clear picture of any of them.

As we reach the top of 10,000 foot ridge lines we begin to see numerous trees with a spiral pattern to their wood. We have read that the spiral growth gives a tree greater flexibility than a tree with straight growth, making the tree better able to resist strong winds or heavy snow loads without breaking.

Additionally, a spiral grain is useful in arid areas with poor soil, like the top of a ridge. The spiral of the tree allows water sucked up from a single root to reach branches all around the tree, and it allows sugars made in the leaves on a single branch to reach all of the roots. These trees, fundamentally, are communists. All of this makes these trees more able to survive the droughts and heavy storms that afflict the Eastern slope of the high sierra.

At the end of the day, we cross a trail that would lead us out of the Sierra for an opportunity to resupply. We initially planned to take this trail out, but found that we were making much better time than we anticipated, due to the rapidly melting snow. Our next potential resupply exit is 40 miles ahead. We decide to risk being hungry for the final day, and continue on. I am carrying a small vial of olive oil that I add to meals and take sips of. It is the most calorie dense food we can carry.

We have a great campsite at 11,000 feet. I feel more acclimated to the elevation tonight and am able to sleep well. Amber, the Iron Dove, is completely unaffected.